16 emerging brands that will be seen everywhere in 2022

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Lukhanyo Mdingi

Status: You’ve probably already heard of South African Lukhanyo Mdingi, a LVMH Award finalist and one of three Karl

Lagerfeld Award winners this year. Based in Cape Town, the designer collaborates with local artisans to create pieces

with enormous attention to detail, often spun in wonderful, vibrant colors, such as bright yellow, orange, green

or red.  

Highlight: Lukhanyo Mdingi is a master of patterns. 

Signature piece: This multi-textured scarf was made with heart.

Amy Crookes

Status: The DNA of eccentric shoe designer Amy Crookes is unique. Her Instagram bio says she creates “sexy, stretchy

shoes”-an apt description for her pleated, psychedelic boots and ballerinas. The Parsons grad founded her brand

in 2022 and recently unveiled her first capsule collection, bubbly and ruched and made in Italy. 

Highlight: Boots and booties that are sure to get people talking.

Signature piece: The impressive Victorine thigh-high boots, to be jealously guarded.

Feben

Status: This year, Feben is the one to watch. This Londoner, freshly graduated from Central Saint Martins, makes

clothes that go beyond simple fabric assemblages. Interwoven with markers of her own identity as a black woman,

political messages and improvisations around the body, her collections have a refreshing impact. Unsurprisingly,

she is already on the radar of Beyoncé, Michaela Coel, Erykah Badu and Janelle Monáe, who have all worked with her.

We owe the power duo Ib Kamara and Rafael Pavarotti her Spring/Summer 2022 campaign, which, as expected, is beautiful. 

Strong point: Boldness and beauty.

Standout piece: The textured turquoise pants from the Feben spring-summer 2022 collection.

S.S. Daley

Status: Liverpudlian Steven Stokey-Daley was catapulted into the fashion spotlight in the fall of 2020 when: https://chairbanker45.doodlekit.com/blog/entry/21259210/calvin-klein-shoes-sandals, spotted by stylist Harry Lambert, he was commissioned to create the beautiful shirts in the “Golden” video

for Harry Styles: http://demetracskamaria.eklablog.com/nike-phantom-vision-grey-red-nike-phantom-vision-rising-fire-a211779384 . To his credit, he also advocates for a made-to-order business model that ensures no waste in the creative process.

Steven Stokey-Daley often reuses old fabrics such as tablecloths and curtains, offering a unique, custom quality

to each piece he makes.

Strength: Great shirts.

Signature piece: His knits, like his diamond tank top sweater.

Studio 189

Status: From the artisans they work with to the traditional methods they champion, Studio 189 founders Rosario

Dawson and Abrima Erwiah aim to create a creative community that is more than just a “brand.  Accra is the home

of Studio 189, where all of its different business lines – e-commerce, manufacturing and projects – operate from.

Strength: Pieces that you will cherish for a lifetime and pass on.

Signature piece: The hand-ruffled cotton shirtdress will be with you every season.

D’Accori

Status: Mo D’Accori is the man behind the fabulous platform shoes you’ve seen all over Instagram. His Belle sandals

and their dizzying heels – which he assures us are, against all odds, very comfortable – have been seen on Lady

Gaga, Dua Lipa, and Ariana Grande. 2022 will be his year.

Highlight: Shoes for dancing, that you never want to take off.

Signature piece: The Belle sandals are a must-have.

Miss Sohee

Status: Sohee Park – the young, Korean-born, London-based designer of the brand Miss Sohee – has been making

a name for herself in the industry for a while now. Her unique approach, which she likens to couture, is delicate,

beautiful and eco-conscious. She resurrects deadstock and recycles fabrics to create extravagant pieces, often

enriched with sequins, beads and embroidery.

Strong point: Panache.

Signature piece: The stone-encrusted wig-scarf hybrid wrap from her fall/winter 2021 collection is as much a

work of art as it is a garment. 

Auné Collections

Status: Auné Collections pieces are hard to find. Popular with fashion lovers, https://writeablog.net/netshock6/asics-gel-kayano-26-black-blue-coast-asics-gel-kayano-mint-asics-gel-kayano, the brand was launched by the Lisbon-based boutique of the same name, specializing in vintage archival pieces

and emerging designers. Its ethereally elegant mesh styles – designed by founder Xenab Lone – have been snapped

up since their release; https://lansign3.tumblr.com/post/685300942041661440/jordan-retro-6-black-infrared-preschool-jordan . Auné Collections applies an innovative business model that other designers should quickly emulate: each product

is “handmade to order, for all shapes and sizes”.

Strong point: Wonderful mesh creations.

Signature piece: The Fardosa minidress/caraco is simply stunning.

Little Kouraj

Status: Designer Nasrin Jean-Baptiste launched Petit Kouraj with the idea of creating unique bags with a crazy

personality. Designed in Brooklyn and made in Haiti, her line of mini knitted totes are wonderfully colorful.

Each piece is made in partnership with DOT Haiti, a women-led organization that ensures communities receive

educational and job training opportunities. All materials are responsibly sourced and Jean-Baptiste only works

with collaborators who share her values. 

Highlight: Her fringe bags – you’ll be stopped on the street to find out where you got yours. 

Signature piece: The incredible midnight blue mini fringe tote is a stylish way to carry all your belongings.

Ancuta Sarca

Status: Last year, shoe designer Ancuta Sarca caught Cher’s eye. Yes, yes, the real Cher. Romanian-born, London-based

Sarca was a resident of the highly respected Fashion East; where her sporty and sustainable footwear earned

her recognition. Using innovative manufacturing techniques, Sarca has become a master of upcycling and cutting-edge

designs.

Highlight: Heels that wouldn’t look out of place on a soccer field. 

Signature piece: We’d happily trot around in her hybrid, lace-up, low-heeled mules.

Theophilio

Status: Artistic director and founder of Theophilio, Edvin Thompson told Vogue that his dazzling Spring/Summer

2022 show was, in his words, “a serene and confident celebration of Jamaican spirit and imagery. Edvin Thompson

fused the spirit of Brooklyn with the heritage of the Caribbean island, creating urban silhouettes with Rastafari

hues and patterns. 

Highlight: A Gen-Z uniform beyond good and cool.

Signature piece: We want it all, but if we really have to choose: the asymmetrical pink dress.

Marshall Columbia

Status: Brooklyn-based Marshall Columbia first sold his brand on Depop, sparking considerable buzz with his

signature bags, padded and stitched with beads. Confinement convinced him to take it a step further and finally

venture into ready-to-wear, and Ssense won the bid. We tell you: the next 12 months are going to be huge for

Marshall Columbia. 

Strength: Tops with neon and nostalgic color cuts and soft bags. 

Signature piece: Her padded shoulder bags, which can double as a pillow on the subway in the morning and evening. 

Labrum

Status: “Designed by an immigrant” can be read on Labrum’s hoodies and T-shirts, symbolizing designer Foday

Dumbuya’s desire to merge Western and West African cultures in his men’s collection. On Labrum’s racks, you’ll

find not only clothes for everyday wear, but also refined tailoring. The suits, all in cheerful stripes and

prints, offer naturally cool silhouettes.

Highlight: A wardrobe of the ultimate jack-of-all-trades.

Signature piece: Her structured indigo denim jacket is the perfect piece to play up the layering. 

Samuel Guì Yang

Status: Casual-cool style is synonymous with Samuel Guì Yang pieces. The brand’s designers, Erik Litzen and

Samuel Yang, blend traditional Chinese dresses with Western culture to create wearable, elegant and modern

pieces. Each season explores silhouettes and shapes through the prism of femininity, the true foundation of

their work. 

Strong point: Basic pieces for every day, with a timeless touch.

Signature piece: This unmistakable pristine white blazer.

Louisa Ballou

Status: Louisa Ballou’s sexy swimsuits are already in the wardrobes of some celebrities – especially Bella

Hadid’s darling “Sex Wax”. Her creations make you want to book a vacation in the tropics in 2022. Do not wait

any longer!

Highlight: Swimsuits and beachwear inspired by the nineties.

Key piece: The one-piece “Sex Wax”, of course.

Mach & Mach

Status: The sparkling Mach & Mach pumps have the Internet abuzz. Sisters Nino and Gvantsa Macharashvili started

their brand in Tbilisi almost ten years ago, but 2021 has truly been their year. Recently, they ventured into

ready-to-wear, and like their shoes, they drowned it all in rhinestones. 

Highlight: It shines!

Signature Piece: You’ll be the most beautiful to go dancing in these crystal-embellished pumps.

Translation by Hervé Loncan

Article originally published on Vogue.UK

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