“Couture was a register to exist differently,” Julien Dossena on the fashion show Paco Rabanne fall-winter
This Sunday, January 23, as the men’s Fashion Week came to an end, the house Paco Rabanne presented its
fall-winter 2022-2023 collection on the sidelines of the official calendar. In exclusivity for Vogue France,
Julien Dossena delivers a deciphering of this pop wardrobe with signature details.
In the heart of the Palais de Tokyo, Paco Rabanne invited a handful of happy few for a true journey of
the senses. In a timeless bubble inviting meditation while questioning our emotions, Julien Dossena paraded
the 33 looks that make up the house’s fall-winter 2022-2023 wardrobe.
I wanted very desirable colors sensorially speaking.
Backstage of the Paco Rabanne fall-winter 2022-2023 fashion show
A true demonstration of know-how, between reinterpretations of the Paco Rabanne codes and fashion experiments with,
as a red thread, the volume, in sensual declinations with couture accents. Ice blue, pale kiwi, Malabar pink…
Modelled on the immersive set, the wide chromatic palette of the Paco Rabanne wardrobe brings a right dose of pop
to the house’s classics, like mesh, sometimes intertwined with knitwear, sometimes grand soir. Underlined waist,
graphic draping, statement sleeves … In exclusivity for Vogue, Julien Dossena reveals the secrets of creation
of the collection Paco Rabanne fall-winter 2022-2023. Pas Color EXT Backstage of the Paco Rabanne fall-winter 2022-2023 fashion show
Vogue. How did the creative process go? Julien Dossena. This season, we really wanted to explore radical cuts
and textures; volumes. Everything started with the material, it’s an exploration, a more plastic research.
What were the inspirations for the set? I was delighted to return to a physical show, I had missed it a lot.
We wanted to create with the team an abstract space, enveloping, out of time, like a meditation session. A
pure but very lively atmosphere while playing with colored lights. https://list.ly/yardsexcrescencesoce40 Backstage of the Paco Rabanne fall-winter 2022-2023 fashion show
What is the key silhouette of this fall-winter 2022-2023 collection? It lies in the proportions, we wanted
to achieve a very short look and very rich in contrasts with the bare legs. The skin that meets the textures
This collection has very couture details, was it a way to return to the basics of fashion? For me it was
a register to twist, to make exist differently. And the sewn volumes are ultimately very abstract, radical,
it is a good platform for ideas. We discover in particular a dress combining mesh and knit, the very short
which côtoie long sleeves…
Backstage of the Paco Rabanne fall-winter 2022-2023 show
What does this clash of materials and cuts mean? It was really the meaning of this research, creating new conversations
between materials and colors, unexpected. And reinventing mesh, which is an iconic material for Paco Rabanne, essential
to the history of the house.
Last season’s prints gave way to a pop palette, what were your color inspirations? I wanted very desirable colors,
sensorially speaking. A very pale kiwi, a malabar pink… Colors that evoke a feeling more than a clear aesthetic
register. http://sergiocnvictorin.eklablog.com/adidas-ultraboost-core-black-adidas-ultraboost-city-pack-a211693690 Backstage of the Paco Rabanne fall-winter 2022-2023
Acielle Style DuMonde
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