What to expect from Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring

What to expect from Milan Men’s Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023

From JW Anderson’s highly anticipated debut to Moschino and Versace’s big return to the official calendar,

here’s everything you need to know about Milan Men’s Fashion Week.

Men’s Fashion Week kicks off in London on June 11, and this year’s shows will again be mixed and mostly

virtual. The Pitti Uomo show in Florence will then take over from June 14 to 17 and will welcome designers

Ann Demeulemeester and Grace Wales Bonner as guests of honor for this 102nd edition. Finally, we head

to Milan, which, according to the director general of the Italian National Chamber of Fashion, Carlo

Capasa, promises exciting moments. The highlights of this edition? Versace and Moschino will make their

comeback after three and four years of absence, respectively; JW Anderson will make its Covid-delayed

debut in this fashion capital (and throw a party in the process); the digital presentations have been

thoroughly redesigned; and the entire Milan calendar has been changed.

Start of the festivities

Dsquared 2 will open the show on June 17. Ermenegildo Zegna, who opened Milan Fashion Week last year,

will close the season with the last live show on June 20 at the beautiful Oasi Zegna nature reserve,

120 km from Milan.

June 21 will be entirely dedicated to virtual shows, allowing those present at the physical shows to

focus on the “real” without being caught up in the screens. The titans of Italian fashion, Emporio and

Giorgio Armani, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Etro, Brunello Cucinelli, etc. will of course be part

of the show. After his Gucci Vault last September, Alessandro Michele will unveil his collection in a

different format than the traditional runway show, although we don’t know much about it yet, except that

the event will take place on June 20 before the Zegna show. https://zenwriting.net/linelion54/cheap-wheat-timberland-boots-for-men-preschool-timberland-field-boots

  • Zegna spring 2022.
  • Photo: Courtesy of Zegna
  • From surprise to surprise

What else is there to say? Well, Philipp Plein has not one, but two late night shows in store for us: he will

first present the collection of his luxury sportswear brand Plein Sport, followed by his recently acquired

brand, Billionaire. Marcelo Burlon is also back, presenting the 10th anniversary show of his line County of

Milan (he will also be hosting a party). Finally, Matthew Williams’ 1017 ALYX 9SM label will return after its

Milan debut last season.

Tramezzino

The Milan program is therefore a tramezzino of big houses that unfortunately risk overshadowing emerging talents,

like Indian Dhruv Kapoor or local upcycling designer Simon Cracker. Two newcomers will also make their debut

on the Milanese scene: Sease, the young brand founded by Franco and Giacomo Loro Piana around the world of

sailing, and Corneliani, the brand of the Englishman Paul Surridge, who made his debut at Roberto Cavalli and

Zegna.

“We are doing our best to continue to generate hope and income for the hundreds of thousands of people who

work in the fashion industry.” – Carlo Capasa

“I think this new schedule indicates a strong return to normalcy, as far as we can talk about normalcy in this

time of war in Europe and a global pandemic,” Carlo Capasa told Vogue Runway. “We are doing our best to continue

to generate hope and revenue for the hundreds of thousands of people who work in the fashion industry.” View more Why is fashion going upcycling?

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He adds that the decision to make June 21 an exclusively virtual day was well thought out: “The goal is to maximize

everyone’s time. We found that mixing the digital with the physical didn’t work: there’s always one that distracts

from the other. And dedicating Tuesday to digital presentations, which have the advantage of being able to follow

along from anywhere, allows people to follow up with Paris Fashion Week that evening.”

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GoRunway

Newcomers

But how will Milan welcome JW Anderson and the other newcomers? “Here, fashion takes up a lot of space,” says Carlo

Capasa. There are about 800 showrooms that represent 3,000 brands and sell for seven months of the year. It’s quite

simple: there is no better place to distribute a brand. And I think Fashion Week is becoming more and more interesting

on an international scale, in that it combines already powerful and established houses with a new generation that

is given a platform.”

“While on the surface not much has changed, we are still witnessing a small revolution in the industry.” – Carlo

Capasa

Two years ago, the pandemic caused an existential crisis for designers, as it did for many people. Many said they

wanted to switch to more environmentally friendly production methods. Now that the in-person shows have resumed,

what’s left of those promises? “Things are more or less back to where they were,” admits Carlo Capasa. At one point,

we said ‘we have to make fewer collections, less this, less that’, but in truth, nothing has changed. This is because

the system has proven itself. On the other hand, I have seen a deeper commitment to sustainability and waste management.

For example, many recent collections are upcycled and produced in extremely limited quantities. So, even though on

the surface not much has changed, we are still witnessing a small revolution in the industry.”

Last question about this busy Milan Fashion Week: should we extend the “week” by one day? For men’s fashion, Carlo

Capasa thinks not, “because it’s more relaxed”, but for women’s fashion, he has a different opinion: “Absolutely!

Absolutely! Honestly, we don’t have enough slots for the shows. There are brands that want to come, but I have to

say no to them. It’s unbelievable. So, for women’s fashion, we need one more day, for sure.” Where To Buy Jordan Future Translation by Sandra Proutry-Skrzypek