From the sketch to the catwalk: the Coach Spring

From the sketch to the catwalk: the Coach Spring/Summer 2022 collection

Stuart Vevers decrypts for us his favorite look from the Coach Spring/Summer 2022 collection by talking about his influences:

Santa Fe, New York and American craftsmanship… Courtesy of Coach

Ready-to-wear is relatively new for Coach, despite the American brand’s 77-year history in leather goods.

Since his arrival five years ago, British designer Stuart Vevers has worked tirelessly, and successfully,

to give the 100% American luxury label an identity of timeless chic with a touch of American western freedom.

The secret to his success? Taking iconic pieces from the brand’s heritage and reworking them in an authentic

way. “The pieces also have an imaginary dimension,” he explains to Vogue ahead of the Spring/Summer 2022

show. “Coach didn’t do ready-to-wear in the 1950s and 1960s, but [when you see the collections today],

you’d think that this ready-to-wear comes from a long tradition. [The designs] are credible. One of those

signature pieces from the house that Vevers reprises season after season is the leather jacket, which he

enhances with sleek collars, vintage patterns, custom patchworks, and even supernatural symbols (Fall/Winter

2022). Here, Vevers shares his approach to this iconic piece for this season (sleeveless, soft suede),

and deciphers for us one of his favorite looks from this new collection.

Courtesy of Coach

On the craft

“What I like about this look is that it brings together several key messages of this season. The ruched blouse,

the prairie skirt, the fringed suede jacket, the detailing – you can really feel the craftsmanship behind it.

It’s this concept that I’ve been exploring more deeply over the last few seasons, looking at what an American

vision of craftsmanship could be, and how it could be distinct from the world of traditional European luxury.”

On leather styling

“When I design a Coach jacket, the first thing I think about is that when you put it on, you should instantly

feel cooler. It’s all about the attitude. That’s why we often give pieces a slightly worn, aged look; we treat

leather or choose materials [that will have] a raw, purposefully worn look. And then there is another essential

aspect in Coach’s approach to leather: the practical aspect. The idea is to take American symbols and archetypes

and bring a less formal approach to them.” Courtesy of Coach

On his vision for Coach

“The people of New York are my main inspiration. New York has been the home of Coach since 1941 – so it

makes sense that it’s the starting point and end point for each collection. Even though I’ve traveled

extensively in the U.S. and regularly draw inspiration from different parts of the country (including

Santa Fe, New Mexico, this season), the Coach customer dresses in the city, and chooses other things while

traveling… That urban attitude is really important.”

On his inspiration for the spring/summer 2022 collection

“I went to Santa Fe and visited all these little villages, sometimes made up of just a few houses, and

I noticed that a lot of the buildings, gardens, and fences were made from reclaimed materials. This observation

had a huge impact on this season as a whole. The idea is to assemble and reconstruct the craftsmanship

and spirit of the American look, to explore and play with these salvaged objects and place them in a new

context. We often end up playing with the elements, bringing things together that we wouldn’t normally

put together – for example, soft suede trainers with a sporty sole – and fusing them together to create

something innovative and unexpected. On finding the right balance “The embellishments were the most time-consuming

problem to solve. You have to find the right balance with the finishes, so they don’t look too polished

or too perfect. I think when things are too perfect, they lose that attitude [that you’re trying to have].

And the processing technique also took time – especially the bangs on the jacket. They have an intentionally

worn look, but you have to find the perfect balance. If you go too far and age them too much, the result

is not satisfactory. But if they’re too clean and precise, you’re missing out on the desired attitude.” Courtesy of Coach

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